All posts tagged esther nelson

Esther Expedition: “Begging us not to go”

by noel.piper on May 30, 2012 in Asia with No comments

Esther Expedition

What remains of the life and ministry of Esther Nelson and her fellow missionaries? That is one of the big questions I had in mind throughout our Esther Expedition in China in March.

Of all the places where Esther Nelson lived and worked, Huili seems to have the healthiest, most thriving church. Even though we know God works in many ways to build his church, the missionaries are certainly part of the heritage in Huili.

The number of meeting points is one measure of the life of the church. In a town the size of Huili these days, there is probably only one registered church, if any at all. The government may grant permission for the church to have meeting points where one of the church’s pastors preaches periodically.

The pastor named 11 towns where there are meeting points of the Huili church. Ideally, each of these has a local leader who teaches when the pastor isn’t there. This is an amazing number for a rather isolated town.

Old women staring at us. Imagine what a curiosity Esther must have seemed.

Two of those meeting points are in towns that Esther names–”outstations” where she went with the gospel, and where the gospel is still spoken at the church’s meeting point.

Traveling the road between Xichang and Huili, we stopped and walked along the old main street of Yimen, which Esther called Emen (photos). We were the only foreigners there and it’s not likely there have been many in the years since Esther trekked 18-20 rugged miles over the mountains to get there and to walk along that same street.

 

May 5, 1949 – Huili

Well, I have done some visiting around of late.  I took [a nice long walk] to Emen, fifty li north of us. My coolie woman and her son came with me. Emen [Yimen] is just a small village of but one street long. Most of the people living there are tillers of the land, some are inn keepers, others are business men, but they all need the Lord tho they do not realize it.

The afternoon of our arrival we rested. The next morning I was out on the street early talking to the people and children. They were interested and listened earnestly. I talked until my throat was dry and harsh. Then I went for a little rest. Later my woman and I went out around the village visiting the homes ’round about.  Some places we came to, they begged us to tell them more, begging us not to go, but when we must go, they asked us to come again. We gave tracts and gospels to those who could read and they were delighted to get them.

Perhaps Esther’s testimony there is part of the reason a Gospel witness remains in Yimen.
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My travel photos may be viewed at my Shutterfly Share Site.
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Esther Expedition: Huili — getting there

by noel.piper on May 27, 2012 in Asia with 3 Comments

Addition: We arrived in Huili just one day after the 64th anniversary of Esther Nelson’s arrival there. For us it was March 9, 2012. For Esther it was March 8, 1948. (I was 2-1/2 months old then).

Esther Expedition – March 2012

It was a rough road 3 months ago from Xichang up to Huili. And I do mean up–over 4 ranges, each higher than the last. Once we got to the mountains the good road looked like the photo to the right here. Pavement not too bad, but watch out for the edges. In this shot, the drop-off is only a few feet. My eyes were shut too tight for taking photos when we were  skimming the edges of the non-guardrail real dropoffs.

What really tears up the road is the heavy trucks, hauling coal from near the top of one of those ranges. For miles, the potholes were the smoothest part of the ride. The  small car we were driving in kept hitting bottom–hard. Paul, the owner and driver, assured us there was a protective cover. Good thing, else we’d have been paying for lots more than his time.

The trucks groan to the top and then descend the other side in a cloud of steam, produced by the device that sprays their brakes to keep them from burning up on the downhill stretches. At filling stations, truck drivers don’t just fill with gas, but also with water for those brake coolers.

Still, once again as we compared our trip with Esther Nelson’s, we came out easy. Our ride took a long morning; hers was 2 long days. Here’s her description of  traveling the same route. Don’t miss the Minnesota-style irony when she says the roads are fine.

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Wednesday, March 10, 1948

I left Sichang [Xichang] on Sunday morning, or rather noon for it was noon before we got away altho we were told to present ourselves at 8:30 in morning. I do not like starting out on any trip or journey on Sunday but at times we can not help it, we have to go when bus leaves or wait an several weeks. Perhaps that would be the thing to do but sometimes it seems not.  I wish you could see the thing they call a bus and  the way they load it.  I did take the picture of it but only about half the people were on as I had to take it when we stopped and some were off before I was ready.

Found on the way to Huili--Esther's "bus" still running?

The bus here is an open truck, and first freight and baggage are packed in, then the people scramble on top as fast as they can and squeeze in like sardines or even more so. I was fortunate this time to be allowed to sit in the cab part with the driver but that too was crowded as we were four people and a baby besides four or five large wash basins, my typewriter, my shopping bag full of last minute things (the one Odette gave me), and half a dozen other things under and on our feet, or in our laps.

The roads were in rather poor repair which of course is nothing new. The truck traveled without his hood as it had to be off so that the two men sitting one on either side of the hood part could coax the truck along, sometimes feeding it gas, sometimes oil, sometimes tying the broken wires together and sometimes burning alcohol to get it hot. Always the cranker had to be used, sometimes putting stones under wheels as the brakes were worked on.

It is wonderful how they can manage and the truck chocks away at a fair speed and thankful I am that it can not go faster.  We did have a good driver this time. We had a difficult time getting started.  The truck was packed way beyond its capacity, the people sitting on top of the hood and everywhere, even having their feet hanging over the top of the cab so that the driver could hardly see the road at times.

I wish you could see the roads. Well they are fine.

Going up the higher hills the people had to get off and walk up, and over most of the bridges they walked. We were getting along well when at about one o’clock or so we arrived at a place where the small bridge had been removed to build the one on the further side leaving this one a big gap with no boards or planks or even stones to fill it up with It took all of an hour to dicker with the people who were to’ have had it in repair to get them to get it fixed up and then at quite a sum of money.  (This was a public bus and roads should be prepared.) The men began coming from every direction carrying heavy planks, tree trunks and boards and in another hour we were ready to proceed on our way, none the worse for our wait in the sun. Some even went and had their dinner.

Dechang now ("Tei Chang" to Esther)

I had to stop and move out of the sun it seems to shine into every corner and is quite hot.  The flies too, are a nuscians (?  My dictionary is in Shanghai!).

We arrived at Tei Chang [Dechang] at about 4:30 p.m. but had to stop here for the night, as if we went on we could not make the next good stopping place, so another two hours were lost.

It was almost a panic getting off for sleeping. Places are not too many and each one wants a good one. It’s every one scramble for himself.  I got off but too much of a scramble for me so let the greater number get away before I tried to get at my baggage, two suitcases, one box of a few tin things, and my bed bundle, consisting of a coverless quilt, steamer rug, wash basin and toilet articles, my green coat, and several other things that did not get room in suitcases, wrapped in a large oil sheet. When I finally got in I was sent up on the loft which was not all finished, as yet only a little more than half having floor. I saw some straw in a corner and hurried over and got a large two hands full and put it the other corner right next to a paperless window (Paperless means glassless) Then I put my bed bundle there also. The rest I left in a room downstairs. The only stairs was a ladder. I scrambled down this several times before I could get two boiled eggs and a little bowl of rice, and some warm peanuts for my supper and lunch. Then turned in for the night but I was so tired that I did not stop to open my bed bundle but just spread the straw, used my bag of things as a pillow, my coat as covering and off I went to dream land with my 23 million dollars under my head.

We were off early so I was so glad I did not have to stop and tie up my bed bundle. I noticed some of the others did as I did about opening bedding. Today our hills or mountains were some what higher climbs and all day long we circled around in the mountains, with some sudden hair pin turns, caved-in roads and so on. Long before we were anywhere near Hweili [Huili] we borrowed alcohol from another bus going in other direction but long before we got in we were feeding the truck pouring in a little at the time from a bottle. This was found too tedious so they stopped and uncovered some in the truck but they were too stingy with it so it only lasted a short distance but as luck would have it we were going downhill all the way so coasted down.  When we got to the other side of Hweili where it was flat we stopped to send into town for alcohol. This was a mile or more to town which we were expected to walk. It was just dusk so another scramble to get away before dark.  I got a carrier for my baggage and off we went to town and to the church.

I have arrived.  Thank the Lord.

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There are more photos of the road between Xichang and Huili.

Huili ("Hweili" to Esther) -- late 1940s

Huili today

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My travel photos may be viewed at my Shutterfly Share Site.
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Subscribe to Tell Me When To Pack. Use the links to the right or click here.
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If you make a purchase after you click on some of the product links in a post or after you use an on-line shopping link in the sidebar, I receive a small commission, which costs you nothing extra. I recommend only items that I think will be of interest to my readers and that I probably have used personally or wish I had.
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I hope you’ll also visit my other blog–NoelPiper.com

Esther Expedition: Huili — Esther’s house?

by noel.piper on May 22, 2012 in Asia with No comments

My laptop is living up to its name by sitting in my lap while I sit on the love seat in my living room. So it’s a good time for some virtual travel. One virtue of virtual travel is that we can be together in Europe one moment, and then fly the next moment to China.

A few days ago I heard of someone who was in China and would be traveling to Huili, Sichuan Province. She is related to one of the families who was serving there at the same time as Esther Nelson. Esther was there  1948-1951.

Sending some Huili information to her reminded me that I hadn’t yet uploaded any of my photos from Huili or posted anything here about that significant place.

Today, let’s just visit the church.

The Huili  church building is entered through the courtyard behind some businesses that face the street. The church owns the businesses (one is called the Gospel Snack Shop or

something like that) and rents them for income.

We showed up without notice just when a small meeting was about to begin in the balcony area. We were greeted first with kindly curiosity. Their interest and enthusiasm grew as we explained our reason for being there and showed them the “Esther Nelson’s China” photobook that traveled in the back pocket of my vest.

They told us that there had been an old missionary house where the altar of the church is now, and they thought that must have where Esther Nelson and Flora Mae Duncan lived.

Perhaps that was Esther’s house, but I’m not sure becasue a letter from that time says they lived in a house behind the chapel, which was a different building.

Around town later, we showed a 1949 photo of the chapel building and asked a number of people in the streets or in shops where the chapel building was–the former bank building that the Baptists bought to use for classes and other gatherings besides the usual church services.
Finally, someone put the pieces together and pointed us to a place a few hundred yards down the street from the church building. The old building isn’t there any more, but in the courtyard, you can see the top edge of an old house over a wall. It’s in the right place, in the right courtyard behind the former site of the right building, so it might have been Esther’s house. It wasn’t accessible at the time I spotted it.

White building is where chapel used to be

Roof of old house, just visible over long low wall

 

 

 

 

 

 

And there are more Huili Church photos too.

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My travel photos may be viewed at my Shutterfly Share Site.
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Subscribe to Tell Me When To Pack. Use the links to the right or click here.
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If you make a purchase after you click on some of the product links in a post or after you use an on-line shopping link in the sidebar, I receive a small commission, which costs you nothing extra. I recommend only items that I think will be of interest to my readers and that I probably have used personally or wish I had.
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I hope you’ll also visit my other blog–NoelPiper.com

Esther Expedition: I remember her

by noel.piper on March 17, 2012 in General with 5 Comments

Esther Expedition

One of those amazing God-incidents (no coincidences, you know) led us to two men who looked at Esther Nelson’s photo and said, “I think I remember her.”

To back up to the beginning of the day, we were looking at the Esther Nelson’s China photobook with Mr. X who grew up here. He kept saying with wonder, “These photos are precious, so precious.” When we came to a panorama of the city of Ya’an, where we are, he pointed to a tiny bump on the mountain ridge behind the city, “That’s where the Mingde school was.” By the way, apparently all the Baptist schools in Sichuan were named Mingde — which translates loosely as “Bright Morality.”

Before he went with us up to where the school was, he told us he has a friend who is the son of the next-to-last principal of the school, and that when he talked with him next, he’d ask him for any information that we might be glad to have.

On the top of a forested hill overlooking the city is a solid-looking, 3-story, brown brick building with a grand, high-arching entry. This was the Mingde School for what Americans would call middle school and high school. It sits empty and locked up in an area that’s a park now. Between being a school and being left empty, it housed the district government administration. (photos)

Behind the old school is a smaller 1-story building–a cafe. In the area between the cafe and the school are umbrella tables crowded with mahjong- and card-playing people. We heard this building used to be the dining room for teachers.

Now, here comes the God-incident. As we walked around outside the building, taking pictures, Mr. X called to Joann. “Remember the man I told you about? Here he is!” The son of the former principal, the very man Mr. X had told us about earlier, was sitting at one of those tables, playing mahjong with his brother and some others.

The brothers came around to the front with us to look at the photobook. When they turned the page to group photo of hospital staff , including Esther, one of the brothers pointed to her and said, “I remember her.” He was young and didn’t really know anything about her, but he remembers her. The words I’ve been dreaming I’d hear sometime on this expedition.

Their father had gone through Mingde School before he went away for higher education and came back again to work in the school. And yes, they said, he attended the Baptist church.

“Did you?” we asked. They said they were so small that they had just played while the service was going on. Remember over the course of the 1950s–while both of them were still boys–churches all closed down. Neither is involved with church now.

One more thing. They remember missionaries out amongst the people on the street, giving the children beautiful pictures. “We had lots of them at our house.”

The cards you sent–I have been pasting some on colored strips of paper with a religious tract and health tract on same. They love these pictures to hang up in their homes, so I thought they would also have some of these tracts which they would not tear off and some good may come of them. (Esther Nelson, 4/16/37)

Our conversation and pictures today have wakened memories in these men. Beautiful pictures. Whispers of long-ago hymns. Their own recall of “Jesus Loves Me.” A father who thought church important. Might it be that those old memories, stirred to life today, might stir the brothers to new life?

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As photos from the Esther Expedition photos are uploaded, you can see them anytime my Esther Nelson Shutterfly share site. There’s a map there too, of our expedition locations.

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If you make a purchase after you click on a product link in a post or after you use an on-line shopping link in the sidebar, I receive a small commission, which costs you nothing extra. I recommend only items that I think will be of interest to my readers and that I probably have used personally or wish I did. 

Layover in Yichang

by noel.piper on March 7, 2012 in Asia with 1 Comment

Esther Expedition

 

It’s Thursday morning in Chengdu for Joann and me, while our families are still living Wednesday evening in Minnesota. We’re regrouping today before launching out tonight to places where Esther actually lived and worked.

Last post, I wrote about worshiping at Shanghai Community Church 4 days ago, on Sunday. That afternoon we flew to Yichang, which in Esther Nelson’s day was known by foreigners as Ichang.

For Esther, it was a stop on her voyage up the Yangtze river from Shanghai to Chongqing (known to her as Chungking). She might have spent a few days at a time in Yichang, waiting for the next boat, whose schedule might be uncertain. But she never lived or worked here.

Still, there were a few photos of “Ichang” in her old albums, including 2 of the sort of monumental buildings we associate with London or Washington, DC. In fact, one of the buildings was flying an American flag, so we guessed it might have been the American consulate.

We showed those photos to taxi drivers, hotel personnel and others. No one recognized them. The best pointer we could get was directions to the neighborhood where the old city and foreign governmental buildings used to be.

So we set out wandering. We walked along the riverfront, where Esther’s steamship from Shanghai would have docked. We looked to the hills across the river and tried to find the notch from which one photo was taken, looking back to the town. She and friends must have taken a small ferry across the river that day for an outing in the hills.

As we turned away from the river and toward the town, we saw the large Yichang City Hall. It is common that Chinese government buildings now stand where foreign official buildings used to be. That confirmed we were in the right neighborhood.

We found some wonderful old narrow passageways and alleyway streets lined with houses, shops, open air vendors–streets Esther would have walked. Along the streets, amid the newer buildings were random ones that were very old. But all of them were everyday, normal places, not the grand government-like buildings we’d seen in Esther’s photos.

Then Joann noticed the historic preservation plaque on a large could-be-old-enough building. It was property of the Catholic Church. Around the corner was the church building itself. Inside we were met by a friendly woman who was a treasury of information. She introduced us to the priest. He didn’t recognize “our” buildings, but he knew of one old place, and asked the woman to walk there with us.

Hidden in a courtyard, surrounded by “regular” buildings was the former British Consulate, now a restaurant. The US Consulate would certainly have been nearby.

We walked out of the courtyard, excited over this discovery and thinking we’d found all there’d be for us. But right across the street within a wall was an old, gray, squarish, business-like building. The historic preservation plaque by the gate named it as the former British Steamship Company.

Here was another find. Esther’s transportation up and down the Yangtze was often via British steamships. As Joann said, “Who knows? She probably stopped in here to buy tickets, confirm schedules, and check on her frequent traveler miles.”

So, in Yichang, merely a layover city for Esther, we saw places she would have seen and walked where  she would have walked. This is more amazing than it might sound, because China–though it has a millenia-long heritage–has covered much of the old with new.

I’m sorry, I can’t take time to upload photos into this post, because I need to skim over Esther letters to check again for names and places and details that will aid our searches during our next jaunts.

So here are the photos where you can see the old Yichang story for yourself.

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If you make a purchase after you click on a product link in a post or after you use an on-line shopping link in the sidebar, I receive a small commission, which costs you nothing extra. I recommend only items that I think will be of interest to my readers and that I probably have used personally or wish I did. 

Worshiping where Esther worshiped

by noel.piper on March 6, 2012 in Asia with 7 Comments

Joann and I have been without Internet for 2 days because we’ve been up the river on a slow boat in China. But before I tell you about that, I think I better catch you up in chronological order, so I don’t get confused. (In the meantime, you can see some of Joann’s reminiscences of the river now compared to her own trip in the 1980s.)

In the files of Esther’s papers is a bulletin for Sunday, October 29, 1933, from the Community Church of Shanghai. The church is still there. A brass plaque on one side of the entrance still says Community Church, though we also heard or saw it referred to as Heng Shan Road Christian Church or Shanghai International Church.

If you’d like, you can see more pictures from our visit to Shanghai Community Church.

The congregation Esther worshiped with would have been almost entirely non-Chinese. But all those Europeans and Americans were required to leave China in the early 1950s. Later the church was shut down because of the Cultural Revolution in 1966. It was allowed to reopen in 1980 as a registered Three-Self church. So the congregation we worshiped with last Sunday was almost entirely Chinese.

When we entered, we told the usher we’d like English translation (I did, anyway) and were directed to the balcony where there are headphones for simultaneous translation. We arrived 15 minutes early and already the sanctuary was full.

Recorded mellow instrumental hymns were playing. Other than the music, the main sound was the whispery whish from people praying all around the sanctuary.

I don’t know how the building was used during the Cultural Revolution, but I expect renovation was needed when the church was allowed to function again. If the front now is similar to what it was in 1933, Esther might have been reminded of her home church. Community Church is much grander than the old sanctuary of First Swedish Baptist, but the woodwork color and  patterns are similar.

During the service, a long prayer included the affirmation: “We are not afraid, for we are yours,” and thanks to God that although “before Liberation there were only 700,000 Christians, now there are 50 or 60 million.”

I’m not sure if these are officially accepted numbers, but that doesn’t matter. The truth is that tens of millions of Christians have blossomed from the seeds that were planted by Esther Nelson and many others like her, along with the Chinese brothers and sisters they left behind when they had to depart China.

As this hymn by the congregation affirms: Christ is the Everlasting Lord! (English translation of the hymn is in the description at YouTube.)

 

Let the expedition begin

by noel.piper on March 2, 2012 in Asia with 4 Comments

Esther Expedition

 

I left Minneapolis yesterday for Shanghai, March 1. That’s the anniversary of  the date Hudson Taylor first set foot in China–also at Shanghai–158 years ago.

Hudson Taylor was a pioneer in a new era-of moving beyond the coastlands to the interior .  (There are lots of options if you’d like to read more about Hudson Taylor.)

He died in 1905, when Esther Nelson was 15 years old. I don’t know if she had heard of him then. But she definitely was part of his heritage, one of the many  who pushed beyond the edges of a nation and far into its interior.

She first set foot in China November 3, 1924, also in Shanghai.

And so the Esther Expedition begins in China where Esther began.

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If you make a purchase after you click on a product link in a post or after you use an on-line shopping link in the sidebar, I receive a small commission, which costs you nothing extra. I recommend only items that I think will be of interest to my readers and that I probably have used personally or wish I did. 

Countdown: Packing

by noel.piper on February 27, 2012 in Asia, Recommended with 3 Comments

Esther Expedition

For a Minnesotan, 40-degree days mean springtime. Throw off the down jacket!  A sweater is enough (or by tomorrow it surely will be).

So I look at the weather forecasts for the places I’ll visit in China, and I think, Pretty close to the weather here. Not bad.

Joann, however, says, “Quit dreaming!” She knows China springtimes and is not so glad-hearted. She explains why in today’s post at her blog.

Marmot Lobo's Convertible Pant - Women'sOkay. I get the message. Got to make some changes in my packing pile. But not the 2 pairs of convertible pants something like these, that zip off to become capris.

One can always hope. In the meantime, I guess I better throw in Eddie Bauer Silk Underwear Panta pair of silky long johns.

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If you make a purchase after you click on a product link in a post or after you use an on-line shopping link in the sidebar, I receive a small commission, which costs you nothing extra. I recommend only items that I think will be of interest to my readers and that I probably have used personally or wish I did. 

The Esther Expedition

by noel.piper on February 24, 2012 in Asia with 15 Comments

Update: The travel is done, but the expedition goes on as I continue to process the discoveries, information, and connections and to pass on the stories here at Tell Me When to Pack. You’ve already been a great help with your questions and suggestions. I’m counting on you to keep on “traveling” with me and Esther.

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This is what I posted before the China trip as a reminder of the purpose of the Esther Expedition, in China during March 2012.

Following in the Footsteps of Esther Nelson

Esther Nelson’s average-looking exterior hid an adventurer’s heart. Who could have foretold that the self-deprecating Swede-turned-Minnesotan would spend her life in China?

Nowadays, some travel to China several times a year. But for Esther to travel to Sichuan from Minneapolis in 1924, 1932, 1939, and 1947 was 15 weeks by train, ferry, ocean liner, river steamer, raft, chair, rickshaw, foot and maybe mule or wheelbarrow. This was true of every traveler from America to China until not so very long ago.

During the epochal years of 1924-1951, Esther lived in Chengdu, Yachow, Suifu, Ya’an, and Huili, working as a nurse and as a teacher of nursing students. Her first post was during the early years of what later became Sichuan University. In addition, her interest in the minority peoples of the Tibetan Plateau sent her trekking to villages as far away as 60 Li.

This was an era of warlords, civil war, invasion and liberation. In 1927, she evacuated to Shanghai because of anti-foreign activities. In 1935, the Chengdu hospital was flooded with casualties from the Long March nearby. In 1940, she stayed in Suifu despite Japanese bombs. In 1945, she evacuated to America due to Japanese invasion, returning to China in 1947. In 1951, she had to flee, even without an exit visa. This was a grueling trek, during which a young mother died near Hanyuan, leaving 4 children. Esther cared for the motherless infant through the rest of the journey. Perhaps we will find the monument to the lost mother still there.

I am 63. In the end, Esther was 61. It seems propitious to follow now in the footsteps of this remarkable woman, along with Joann Pittman, another woman who has made China home and brings almost three decades of language and cultural experience to the venture.

Through visiting places Esther lived and following routes she traveled—in particular that last journey wrenching her from her beloved land and people—we want to understand her life, place and people from a perspective closer to her experience. As she wrote: “I cannot explain how happy I am to be going up this river once again. There is something takes a hold of me, thrills me, as I go inward. It cannot be explained, it can only be experienced.”

Esther Nelson’s story rests now in her letters waiting to be told, a story that is intimately interwoven with China’s. A story that both Chinese and others need to hear and see to understand better those historic years and their own place in history and to appreciate those who have gone before and to see what it’s like now in comparison.

Our digitalized albums of Esther’s pictures will be conversation starters and might connect us with a child or grandchild of one of her students or neighbors. Our photography as we travel will give a glimpse of China today through the immediacy of blogging, as we are able. Later a biographical travelogue book will grow from this venture, with photos of then and now.

We go in the spirit of Esther Nelson, leaving the USA: “Fare thee well my dear, dear church. Farewell Minneapolis. Farewell, Minnesota, state of 10,000 lakes, and farewell USA. As I leave you waving farewell, I turn and on the other side there is the waving and beckoning of welcome—my chosen people.”

You’re invited — twice

by noel.piper on January 9, 2012 in Asia with 1 Comment

Joann and I are hoping to see you twice this week.

One invitation is a reminder. The other is one I haven’t told you about yet.

Hoping to see you! And please spread the word.

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